Next month, Lapstone & Hammer is partnering with Philadelphia bespoke denim label, Gentry + Rose, to release our first collaborative denim collection. The collaboration will feature an extremely limited run of 100 pairs of jeans in seven different styles: 13oz Navy Japanese Selvage, 13.5oz Dark Indigo Japanese Selvage, 12oz Indigo Japanese Tech Denim, 12oz Black Japanese Tech Slub Denim, 14oz Black Japanese Work Denim, 13oz Kenzo Blue Philly Raw Denim and 14oz Kenzo Blue Philly Raw Denim. Each style comes in a Classic Straight Leg fit and a Modern Slim Tapered fit. To get a better understanding of what goes into the making of this collection, we sent our photographer Evan Kaucher down to the Gentry + Rose workshop to capture the artisans in action.
Gentry + Rose is a relatively new name in menswear, founded by Aaron Pierce, that specializes in custom, made-to-order denim in extremely limited runs. All of their products are handcrafted in the Kensington section of Philadelphia, but for five of the seven styles, the journey starts in Japan. Rolls of deadstock denim made on vintage American shuttle looms were imported by Pierce from the land of the rising sun especially for this run of jeans.
Back in the Kensington shop, the first step was unrolling the denim and laying out the patterns. Once everything is drawn out, the patterns are then machine cut and laser edged for maximum precision. After being cut and edged, these pieces get hand stitched; everything from the inseams and pockets to the hems and belt loops are run by hand through professional-grade sewing machines until a pair of jeans begins to emerge.
After all the patterns have been stitched together, the finishing process begins. That entails the application, by hand, of the hardware like zippers and buttons, and the Horween chromexcel and veg-tan leather patches that have been stamped with the logos of both Gentry + Rose and Lapstone & Hammer.
And that is how a handcrafted pair of denim jeans is made in Philadelphia. Or at least, it's how these handcrafted jeans are made, from initial design to finished product, entirely in Philadelphia by two local upstart brands. The L & H x G + R Denim Collection will be available exclusively at Lapstone & Hammer starting in late July. Only 100 pairs total will made, so do not sleep on getting your pair.